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Kulloli, Sadhana D.
- Assessment of Lac Dyed Eri Silk and Naturally Coloured Cotton Fabrics
Abstract Views :353 |
PDF Views:2
Authors
Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad (Karnataka), IN
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad (Karnataka), IN
Source
Asian Journal of Home Science, Vol 9, No 2 (2014), Pagination: 427-430Abstract
Environmental awareness, hazards of chemical industries, dyes and increased health consciousness of consumers have paved way for environmental friendly inventions that include variety of fibres, dyes and chemicals. Natural colour cotton, organic cotton, natural dyes, enzymatic finishes, are few of them. An effort was made to weave eco-friendly fabrics using a combination of lac dyed Eri silk with naturally brown coloured cotton. Two fabrics viz., lac dyed pure Eri silk fabric (2/80s) and Eri (warp) x Naturally coloured cotton (weft) union fabrics formed the test sample. Results revealed that, pure Eri silk fabric exhibited greater tenacity, elongation percentage, lower drape co-efficient and colour strength compared to union fabric, whereas Eri x NCC union fabric showed higher values of fabric thickness, weft way bending length, weft way crease recovery angle and abrasion resistance, indicate the fabric to be stiffer and coarser. Hand spun, naturally coloured cotton yarn showed unequal distribution of slubs and snarls which gave novelty appearance and textural effect on handloom Khadi fabric. Thus, lac dyed Eri silk x NCC union fabric; a unique eco-friendly fabric was best suitable for designer's made-ups, shirts and dress materials.Keywords
Eri Silk, Lac Dye, Naturally Coloured Cotton.
References
- Agarwal, S.C. (1997). Lac as a natural dye. Indian Tex. J.,107(10): 26-28.
- Gohl, E.P.G. and Vilensky, L. D. (1987). Textile Science Edn.-1, CBS Publishers and Distributors, NEW DELHI, INDIA.
- Gokarneshan, N. (2003). Growth prospects for coloured cotton. The Text Industry of India, 41 (11-12) : 25-28.
- Gulrajani, M.L., Gupta, D.B., Kumari, A. and Jain, M. (1993). Dyeing with red natural dyes. Indian Tex. J., 103(8): 90-96.
- Paul, R., Jayesh, M. and Naik, S.R. (1996). Natural dye: Classification, extraction and fastness, properties.Tex. Dyer & Printer., 29 (2): 16-23.
- Rungsima Chollakup, Jantip Suesat and Suchada Ujjin (2008)., Effect of blending factors on Eri silk and cotton blended yarn and fabric characteristics. Macromolecular Symposia, 264(1) : 1-296.
- Singh, O.P. (2000). Natural dyes: The Pros and Cons. Indian Tex. J., 110 (4): 42-46.
- Sudhakar, R. and Ninge Gowda, K.N. (2005). Eco-friendly dyeing of silk with copper pod bark extract. Manmade Tex. India, 48 (12): 456-459.
- http://www.indiaprofile.com/fashion/khadi.htm
- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eri_silk
- Ginning, Spinning, Wet Processing and Fabrication: A Means of Value Addition to Organic Kapas
Abstract Views :340 |
PDF Views:2
Authors
Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad (Karnataka), IN
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Science, Dharwad (Karnataka), IN
Source
Asian Journal of Home Science, Vol 9, No 2 (2014), Pagination: 436-441Abstract
Organic cotton is grown without pesticides and insecticides and seeds are not genetically modified. India is still the largest producer of organic cotton in the world, accounting for two-third of the global organic cotton production. Textile in the form of fibre, yarn, fabric, garment and fashion accessory is of at most adorable substrate. It is but true that cotton as Kapas (cotton wool with seeds) has very little value as raw goods but the post harvest processes shall definitely fetch better (premium) price. Two varieties of cottons selected for the study were DHH - 11 and DHB - 915. The efficiency of ginning in conversion of Kapas into lint was 49 per cent and remaining 51 per cent was wastage. The efficiency of spinning was 64 per cent and wastage was 36 per cent. Thrash, handling during spinning, wastage during mechanical processing were the main causes for wastage. The quantity of yarn obtained from 10.66 Q of Kapas was 3.36 q almost 1/3 of the total weight; but the returns were 5.82 folds. The calculated profit from Kapas to finished cloth was 29.60 per cent.Keywords
Organic Cotton, Ginning, Spinning, Wet Processing, Weaving.References
- Organic cotton production declines in India as brands shift to Better Cotton Initiative, Jayashree Bhosale, ET Bureau Mar 11, 2014, 04.06AM IST
- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Organic_cotton
- http://www.motherearthnews.com/nature-and-environment/organiccotton-benefits.aspx#ixzz2zousvsq
- https://www.haenow.com/cart/whyorganic.php
- http://articles.economictimes.indiatimes.com
- Ikat sarees of Odisha
Abstract Views :383 |
PDF Views:0
Authors
Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad (Karnataka), IN
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad (Karnataka), IN
Source
Asian Journal of Home Science, Vol 12, No 1 (2017), Pagination: 193-200Abstract
To document the different types of Sarees, motifs and their placement a selfstructured interview schedule was used to elicit the information on the types of silk and cotton Sarees manufactured and motifs used in the popular Ikat sarees of Odisha. The most popular Sarees woven are Sambalpuri, Sakatapar, Passapali, Bapta and Bomkai both in cotton and silk with 5.5 meters length and 1.2 meters width using 2/100s-2/120s cotton yarn and 20-22 denier silk yarn. The variegated sarees are beautified with floral pattern, geometrical pattern, small flower Buttis, human figure, Shankha, Chakra, animal and bird depictions.Keywords
Ikat sarees, Motifs, Cotton, Silk, Denier Silk Yarn.References
- Mohapatra, Hemanta K. (2008). A cultural resurgence in Orissa during the post independence Era. Orissa Review, April 2008, pp. 1-10
- Mohapatra, Nihar (2014). A Management Approach to Sambalpuri Sari with a Sign of Cultural Facets. Odisha Rev., 130-136.
- www.hindustantimes.com/news-feed/orissa/highdemandcannotsave-sambalpuri-saris/article1450434.aspx
- www.merinews.com/article/sambalpuri-sari-livingtradition/ 149757.shtml
- www.hindu.com/2009/03/08/stories/
- htm
- www.telegraphindia.com/1101123/jsp/orissa/ story_13209136.jsp
- www.sambalpuribastralaya.co.in/index.asp
- www.boyanika.com/
- Khana:The Blouse Material of North Karnataka
Abstract Views :189 |
PDF Views:0
Authors
Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad (Karnataka), IN
2 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad (Karnataka), IN
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad (Karnataka), IN
2 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad (Karnataka), IN
Source
Asian Journal of Home Science, Vol 12, No 1 (2017), Pagination: 208-212Abstract
Khana is a unique blouse material produced in Guledgudd that is only one textile cluster of India to make blouse material. Traditional hand woven Khana material is the choli or blouse material with extra warp dobby figuring. This study revealed the details about the unique Khana material of north Karnataka. The primary data were collected through personal interview method from the weavers and secondary data were collected from magazines and from web.Keywords
Guledgudda, Khana Blouse Materials.References
- Namrata, M. and Shailaja, D.N. (2008). Contemporized traditional textile made-up- A mode for rural and urban linkage. Indian J. Traditional Knowledge, 7(1):208-211.
- Shailaja, D.N. and Padhy, R.N. (1995). Khana, a unique blouse material. Indian Textile J., 105(12) : 76-80.
- Vastrad, J. (2003). Weaving computerised negi motifs in traditional lakkundi Sarees, Ph.D. Thesis, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad, KARNATAKA (INDIA).
- Guledaguddatown.gov.in
- www.fibre2fashion.com
- Socio-Economic Status of Guledgudda Khana Weavers
Abstract Views :264 |
PDF Views:0
Authors
Affiliations
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad (Karnataka), IN
1 Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, College of Rural Home Science, University of Agricultural Sciences, Dharwad (Karnataka), IN
Source
Asian Journal of Home Science, Vol 12, No 2 (2017), Pagination: 378-381Abstract
Many clusters of Karnataka state use traditional designs and intricate weaving methods. The more traditional sarees of Karnataka are the Molkalmuru sarees of Chitradurga and the Ilkal sarees of Bagalkot. The traditional Guledgudda Khana (Choli or Blouse, elsewhere called Khana), which is only one traditional cluster making blouse fabric in India. Khana are the choli or blouse material with extra warp dobby figures, which are the traditional products of northern Karnataka. Earlier it was woven on pit loom having no warp beam using silk warp and cotton weft. Now-a-days due the existence of powerloom most of the weavers are using extra warp beam but dimension of the material remains same. The body is fully covered with extra warp figuring with dobby shedding mechanism and each Khana piece is about 80cm width and 50cm length. India’s textile is presenting the most intricate and variegated traditional designs to its end users in the world which constitute one of the costly source of textile designs also but this sector is beset with various problems, such as lack of skill, obsolete technology, haphazard production system, inadequate working capital, weak marketing links and health problems like eye sight weakness, joint pain and dust allergy. The study was conducted to know the socio-economic status and associated health problems of Guledgudda Khana weavers of north Karnataka. The information was collected through personal interview method from the weavers. The study revealed that situation of the weavers was worrying due to illiteracy, financial constraints and health problems.Keywords
Guledgudda, Khana Weavers, Socio-Economic Status, Health Problems.References
- Jayavel, D. (2013). Blow of textile industry on member weavers’of silk handloom co-operative societies in Kanchipuram district. Asia Pacific J. Mktg. Mgmt., 2319: 2836.
- Mathiraj, S.P. and Rajkumar, P. (2008). Analytical study on Handloom products production and marketing. Tamilnadu J. Cooperation, 69-73.
- Namrata, M. and Naik, Shailaja D. (2008). Contemporized traditional textile made-up- A mode for rural and urban linkage. Indian J. Traditional Knowledge, 7(1):208-211.
- Prathap, G. and Naidu, M.C. (2015). Socio-economic condition of handloom weavers Vontimitta madal in Kandapa district of Andhra Pradesh. Internat. J. Managerial Studies & Res., 3(1) : 5-11.
- Phukan, R. (2012). Handloom weaving in Assam: problems and prospects. Global J. Human Social Sci., 12(8): 17-22.
- Shailaja, D.N. and Padhy, R.N. Khana (1995).A unique blouse material. Indian Textile J., 105(12) : 76-80.
- Tripathy, S. (2009). Odisha handlooms: problems and perspectives. Orissa Rev., 12: 54-56.
- Venkateswaran, A. (2014). A socio-economic condition of handloom weaving in Kallidaikurichi of Tiruneveli district. Internat. J. Soc. Sci. Res., 2(2) : 38-49.